The Mast wire inside the boat
From the right we have the Datamarine Wind instrument cable, the VHF Radio Coax, the lighting grounding 4 AWG wire and the individual power wires for the mast lights
The Mast Step
We have the stainless mast step and mounted onto it is the aluminum mast step from LeFiell which the base of the mast fits around.
The alumnium mast piece is going to be replaced
The wires are coming out of a piece of marine house.
The green wire is the 4 AWG lightning ground which is landed on the aluminum mast step.
The black cable on the left is the VHF radio coax.
The grey wire is the Datamarine Wind Instrument Wire.
The black cable with the plug on the end are the power wires wrapped in black electrical tape.
Close up of the aluminum mast step
The plug used to link the power wires for the mast lights
VHF Cable connections - wire cut off
Datamarine Cable Connections
Mast Wire and Conduit inside mast
Mast at Koehler-Kraft Yard
Top of Mast with VHF antenna, masthead light (tricolor, anchor, strobe), B&G Network Wind Instrument Base, spinnaker bale
Close Up, all scheduled to be replaced
View from the side
Mast Step, Crazy Fish has a pair of mast steps near the top of the mast, facilitating working on the top of the mast.
Dyneema Stay 1
Dyneema Stay 2
Dyneema Stay 3
Dyneema Stay 4
Dyneema Stay 5
For the past week or so I have been working with Lefiell Masts to get a few replacement parts - sheaves, an aluminum mast step and a possible replacement of the boom to mast connection.
The bolts attaching the cap to the boom have stripped over time. There was also an issue of the boom rotating a bit and it needed to be pinned prior to the installation of Garheur Rigid Vang.
Lefiell wanted pictures sent of the boom cap.
Here they are:
Starboard with missing bolt
So Lefiell has a modified design with tabs on the Boom Cap to keep the boom from rotating if desired.
Unfortunately the Boom Cap on Crazy Fish is an entirely older design that is no longer in production and in order to update to the new Boom Cap would require replacement of the entire boom.
Lefiell recommendation was just to move the Cap back into its original position and drill some new holes and tap them and insert bolts.
Dynamic Marine got around to looking at the Prop Shaft Thursday Morning. Suggested that due to rust on the prop shaft that it would be a good option to replace the prop shaft rather then cut and key the existing one. Go ahead to replace the shaft was given Thursday noon. Expectations were that the new prop shaft would be at the yard around 10:00 AM Monday morning. Around noon I walked over to Dynamic Marine and Dave indicated 3:00 PM. When I got to the yard on Tuesday morning around 9 the shaft and prop were installed. Next step is to lift the boat to install the rudder and then to place the new bearing and build the resin/fiberglass seat for it. Unfortunately the boat yards two travel lift both had suffered hydraulic hose failures, so the yard was backed up. Fortunately 1 travel lift was in operation and the other one being worked by the time I arrived. Its possible that the boat will be lifted sometime this afternoon, the work done, the boat launched and then Hoffman Yacht will complete the work with the boat in the water tomorrow. …….
Max Prop in place on the new shaft.
Close up of the Prop and the fittings
Set screws are 2.5 mm Allen wrench
Pitch adjustment are 6 mm Allen wrench
Zinc screws are 4 mm Allen wrench
Close up of Set screw and Pitch adjustment screw
22 degree Pitch adjustment screw
Used the 22 in the R slot (right handed prop, forward pitch)
Used the 3 in the L slot (right handed prop, reverse pitch).
Came back today looking like this - very nice, I can’t see where the weld was done to connect the piece sent by Pacific Seacraft to the rudder.
Prop shaft has been sent over to Dynamic Marine (across from Downwind) to have 1 1/4” removed.
Cutlass bearing is looking a little lonely
Possible that the prop shaft may come back in time so that the remaining work can be completed and Crazy Fish be dropped in the water tomorrow (Friday) but it may be Monday before she is back in the water.
Prior to this I have been working with Le Fiell Masts to get a few replacement parts - sheaves
The Prop looks like it might not fit once the rudder is installed.
Sent pictures to Thumper at Pacific Seacraft and talked with him.
He indicated that shaft on Crazy Fish was a bit longer then normal and needed to be cut and/or there was still room in the coupling to move it forward.
Confirmed that MaxProp 4 blade Easy would work on a Crealock 37 and that one check that the factory does on installs is to insure that the prop can be removed and installed with the rudder in place.
Fairly straightforward - remove the 4 bolts holding the pedestal and the 4 bolts holding the stainless steel tubing attached to the pedestal. Ratcheting 3/4 and 7/16 wrenches made it easier. With the rudder dropped the quadrant had already been removed so only needed to remove the fittings from the ends of the steering cable. Also detached the Morse cable that controls activation of the Auto Pilot from the Auto Pilot end. Small of amount of sealant was used so once the bolts were removed it was easy to rock the pedestal forward and break the sealant seal.
Tied a line to the pedestal and lowered it to the ground. Then cleaned up the sealant.
Work to be done by Ramon of Chingon Custom Metal Fabrication
Working with Steve Hoffman on the mechanical projects
After the initial high pressure wash down of the hull, the boat was left in the sling while the rudder was dropped.
Had Steve talk with Thumper at Pacific Seacraft so that everyone was clear on the modifications required.
Lots of slop at the shaft/cutlass bearing so it was agreed that the cutlass bearing would be replaced.
Crazy Fish with first coat of paint on starboard side
Starboard Side 2
The Engine Control was stocked and ordered from Fisheries Supply in Seattle. Part # KOB 2042KW1.
Also needed was a cable attachment kit for the Teleflex/Morse Series 30 or Series 40 cables. Determine that the current installation used series 30 cable (10-42 threads at the ends).
Originally ordered 1 kit thinking it would include attachments for both the throttle and gear shift connections, but I was wrong. Each kit (KOB 2042-0901) supplies what is needed to attach 1 cable to the Kobler Engine Control.
Cutting the hole cleanly was quite easy with Fein Multimaster Tool.
The tool is highly recommended. I have had it for over a year and have used on a variety of projects.
Used the blade to cut the hole and the grinding piece to clean the surfaces and to open the hole up a bit more.
Was no problem cutting the hole cleanly thru the fiberglass and marine ply bulkhead. The chip in the upper right corner was due to a bit of excessive pounding with the rubber mallet trying to fit the unit in place.
Once the hole was cut and the Engine Control found to fit with some slack, I mixed up some West Systems epoxy and painted the edges of the hole to seal them from water penetration. Let dry overnight and then completed the mount
The Kobelt has a removable handle
Once mounted measured the distance required cable length at 52” for throttle and 51” for the gear shift. Shortest standard Series 30 Morse cable that Teleflex makes is 6 feet. Purchased two of these cables at San Diego Marine Exchange and they installed cleanly.
The original foam and material was purchased at UFO in National City.
The actual construction of the cushions was done by Hoffman Foam.
Memo and crew did an excellent job a few years back replacing the headliner and have been the goto source for any canvas or upholstery work since then. Quality work, decent prices.
The cushions replaced a set of cushions that were dark green and had buttons in the them. The first failure of the cushions was enlargement of the holes around the buttons. The new cushions had no buttons but we wanted something to break up the cushions so the wedge was added. We also went with a much lighter color.
The 3 B&G Triton Instruments are mounted in a NavPod pod which has the the back piece meant to be mounted to a horizontal tube cut off.
The thru bolts of the NavPod are run thru a couple of layers of starboard which were cut to fit.
1/4 20 bolts are run thru the starboard and mount to aluminum piece which was cut from some 4 inch right angle stock acquired from McMaster Carr. The unit is held in place by 4 wing nuts which can be removed and the whole NavPod move down below. The aluminum is bolted to holes drilled and tapped into the bottom base of the traveller.
The NMEA 2000 cable is run thru the traveller to the port post, into the headliner, into the cabinet above the quarter berth and then to area behind the electrical panel. In order to drill and tap the bottom of the traveller the companion way door had to be removed.
The wind instrument has yet to be mounted so we are displaying depth, speed and sea temp from the single transducer and GPS info from the Garmin GPS over a Actisense NMEA 183 to NMEA 2000 interface.
The view from the front
A closer view
The view from the side
The replacement of the fresh water hose is basically done.The fuel tank was dropped back into the boat.The bare teak under the galley sink has been varnished.The sink needs to be fitted with the new fixtures and installed.
With the water hose out of few lockers I decided to take the opportunity to paint the inside of the lockers. 2 coats of paint have freshen the look - painting the locker beneath the head sink was a bit of a paint fume experience.
With the fuel tank I also started looking at how some the electrical wires had been run since Crazy Fish had been built. Decided to rerun some of the wires to duplicate the runs the Pacific Seacraft had used when building the boat.. Also with the fuel tank removed it open up the possibility of removing some wire that had been abandoned. 1 2/0 red wire was abandoned when I converted the Pacific Seacraft installed 2 banks of batteries located under the settee adjacent to the bulkhead between head and the main salon. Originally 3 12 volt batteries arranged in 2 banks, I removed them and the shelf they sat on and replaced it with a shelf that sat lower and could hold 4 Trojan T104 6 volt batteries in one house bank. At the same time I added a starter battery next to the engine. Since the battery switch is and was located next to the engine this abandoned 2/0 wire was for the 2 banks.
Also was looking at the Bilge Pump situation on the boat. The manual Whale Titan in the cockpit was in the need of repair. The stainless steel bolt that holds the plates together literally fell apart. The head of the bolt separated from the rest of the bolt. The upper plates is cracked but I was able to put it back together. Whale sells a replacement part but decided to buy a whole new pump. Also decided to install a new diaphragm bilge pump in the area next to the trash can and where the macerator for sink, the fresh water pressure pump and the wash down pump are located. Its intake will be at the same location as the Whale Titan and will run be set to run automatically. Both pumps on order and should be here tomorrow.
Also having replaced the Datamarine instruments with a set of B&G Network instruments in 1999 most of the cable runs for the Datamarine instruments were still in place so those have now largely been removed. Also as I now have a new set of B&G Triton instruments the B&G Network cabling is being removed and I will run some of the new NMEA 2000 cables for the B&G Tritons todays.
Hopefully finish up the electrical work today and enough of the new water hose installation today, so that I can drop the fuel tank back in tomorrow.
Would be nice to have the boat operable once again as we have been having some great weather.
The fresh water hoses on Crazy Fish were mainly the hose that been installed when the boat was new. So it is now 23 years old. It had yellowed and had become sticky to the touch.
Initial estimate of the amount of hose that I would need was around 100 feet. Recognizing once again that the cost of the materials was swamped by the installation cost otherwise known as my time I spent some time searching for the best hose. The hose I selected was Trident Series 161 HD Reinforced 1/2” inch Hose (Mfg part number 161-0126).
Heavy duty non-toxic FDA compound PVC with nylon reinforcement. For pressurized drinking water systems and many other uses. Resists odor, taste and up to 250 PSI/WP (depending on I.D. size) @ 70°F. For cold and hot tap water. Good flexibility and bend radius.
Was unable to source it locally (West Marine stocked Trident Series 162 hose) so acquired it from Fisheries Supply in Seattle which has 3 day delivery for UPS Ground shipments to San Diego.
From the head 4 freshwater hoses lead aft (forward water tank, head sink hot water, head sink cold water and head sink foot pump). These lead thru a hole in the aft head bulkhead to underneath the main settee and then another hole to space under the sole up against the main settee. They were cable tied and screwed down in 3 locations under the main settee so I ended up pulling the fuel tank in order to gain access. Once the fuel tank was removed access to the hose run was pretty good and replacement of the hose fairly easy although the space beneath the galley was a bit cramped for the 200+ lb installer.
In 1998 I had installed a PUR 80 Watermaker in the cabinet beneath the head sink. The waste water hose was run from this location beneath the shower sump to the sole on the port side, beneath the galley sink area, under the water heater and back to a T in cockpit water drain. With the present hoses removed came the opportunity to enlarge the holes in the bulkheads to accommodate a fifth water hose line. I was able to pick up Shields 200 Exhaust/Water Hose (No Wire) , 2-1/2” ID, 3-1/16 OD at West Marine to serve as the chafe protection but now need to enlarge the existing 2-1/2” holes to 3-1/16”.
I ordered from Amazon a Bosch HE1 Hole Saw Enlarger to accomplish the task. Hopefully it arrives tomorrow.
Have also decided to replace all the hose clamps (some were rusted) with AWAB SAE Size 6 hose clamps. Defender had the best price. The plan is too ultimately replace all the hose clamps in Crazy Fish with AWABs so I will always know which size wrench to use in order to replace them.
Place an order with Thumper at Pacific Seacraft for the Wheel to Tiller conversion kit.
Includes some custom pieces from Pacific Seacraft, the Edson tiller piece and new engine controls. Once it arrives I will install the new engine controls. The movement of the instruments off the wheel pedestal is in progress and I will likely move the WH Autopilot engagement Teleflex cable from the pedestal to a spot adjacent to the Yanmar Engine control panel sometime in the next couple of weeks. Then it will be time to haul the boat, drop the rudder, have the extension to the post welded on, install the new rudder post bearing and install the rest of goodies.
With a bit of help from the SV Luckness Blog SIte (Thanks Craig) I started to remove the galley sink. The nut holding the faucet to the sink was not budging and I also wanted to replace the spigots and the ones located on the starboard side of the sink were going to be difficult to get at.
As Craig mentions in the referenced the post, the sink is held with 5 bolts - one in the aft center, one at each aft corner and one at the middle of the port and starboard side. Life would have been easier if Pacific Seacraft had used some fender washers beneath the nuts for these bolt. The starboard middle has work its way into the plywood and was pretty difficult to get at. Since the spigots were all going to be replaced, I took the easy route and loosen the nut/fixture at the top and then used the dremel to cut thru the metal tube to release them. I was then able to wedge between the sink top and the galley surface to separate the silicone sealent. Once completed the sink lifted out.
With the moving of the Speed/Depth/Wind Instruments from the Pedestal to a new NavPod to be mounted to the traveller I decided to update the B&G Network system to a B&G Triton system.
- Had to re-route the wires anyway.
- Upgrade to NMEA 2000.
- With NMEA 2000 upgrade only 1 cable needs to be run the instrument Pod. As the cables will be run thru the base of traveller now only have a drill a hole to support the 1 NMEA2000 cable rather the 4 B&G Network cables (1 for speed transducer, 1 for wind transducer, 1 for depth transducer and 1 for power).
- Eliminate one hole in the hull - the Triton system combines Speed, Depth and Temperature in a single transducer. The Network system had separate Speed and Depth Transducers.
- Ultimately will likely upgrade to a B&G Chartplotter and a B&G 4G radar which will integrate with the B&G Triton system
Picture of the backstay
Lifeline attachment to the arch
Picture is of a couple of sidestays, one the new Dyneema Dux stay and one the old wire stay.
I have been wanting to replace it and went to a local San Diego rigger a couple of years ago for a quote and was pretty much ignored, so put it off.
I also learned of Westsail 32 that had been displayed at the Annapolis Boat Show that had been rigged using Dyneema Dux and began to research the use of Dyneema Dux for the standing rigging.
Last fail I attended a weekend rigging seminar put on by Brion Toss at his shop in Port Townsend, WA. Discussions with Brion left me more convinced that would re-rig Crazy Fish using Dyneema Dux. I thought of doing it myself but felt with the new technology I would be better served and perhaps end up with less of an excuse for the insurance company to walk away from a claim if I had it professionally done. For awhile I could not locate anyone in San Diego with any experience with Dyneema Dux. And then in my internet searches I stumbled upon Chris Catterton of C.C. Rigging who had relocated to San Diego from the San Francisco Bay area and had recently become a Colligio Certified Partner. Colligio supplies Dyneema Dux and associated hardware.
Chris and I met, discussed the re-rig and got the project started.
Chris Working on deck.
Chris up in the rigging