At the seminar I met Brian Boschma who I knew had been working on autopilot for single handed sailors using up to data electronics for gyro and compass functions.
Brian had install the autopilot on his boat and was working on the software. I became aware that Brian had move forward with making the autopilot a commercial product and set up the Pelagic Autopilots.
The electronics and motor drive can function in at least 3 modes.
1. Driving a tiller actuator
2. Driving existing below decks autopilot
3. Driving an actuator that replaces the vane in a wind vane.
Here is the unit attached to a Monitor wind vane. There is video of it in use on the Pelagic Autopilot website.
The electronics and motor drive could be supplied so that they could be unplugged from one use and plugged into another.
An option is a wireless remote.
I am planning on acquiring the unit to replace the electronics and motor drive on my WH autopilot but will also acquire the pieces to drive my Monitor Windvane
The rudder post with Edson Rudder Arm and Arm for Rudder Angle feedback for Autopilot. Note that since Crazy Fish originally had a wheel the rudder post is
exposed in this area and we were able to mount the Edson Rudder Arm.
The port cockpit drain
The starboard cockpit drain (no hoses attached yet) with steel beam installed behind
The base of the aft water tank and the fittings for the water fill hose and the overflow hose.
I had always wondered if the bottom of the water tank was the hull of the boat but from this picture it looks like it is an unique fiberglass structure
An AWAB and ABA hose clamp. Both are the same size the ABA has a larger screw and housing.
Purchased 14 ABA hose clamps from West Marine to connect the Cockpit Water Drain hoses - had a few AWAB hose clamps already.
The AWAB 7mm socket wrench with flexible shaft. Useful for getting into tight areas
The AWAB kit which the AWAB wrench came in. As I have replaced the most of the traditional hose clamps on the boat with AWABs the kit is pretty much empty.
Crazy Fish was supplied with 3 Group 24 batteries - 1 battery in 1 bank, 2 batteries in the second bank and the typical battery switch with 4 positions, Bank 1, Bank 2, Both and Off. The Group 24s sat in the locker below the settee just forward of the bulkhead between the head and the main saloon. At some point in the 90s, I cut out the shelf the batteries sat on and installed a new shelf installed lower in the locker that would support the extra height and width of 4 6 Volt Trojan T105 Golf Cart batteries all in one house bank. For engine starting if house bank ran down I installed an Optima battery in the locker forward of the port V-berth adjacent to the engine.
Still wired to a switches with gave the Bank 1, Bank 2, Both and Off and functionality. Also installed and Ample Power Next Step Regulator and replaced the Yanmar alternator with a larger and better Balmar alternator. Also had installed a Cruising Equipment Amp-Hour meter. This is what was used in the 2 year cruise to Mexico in 1999/2000.
When the boat was re-powered, I removed the Balmar alternator off the old engine but it never made it to the new engine.
At the 2014 US Sailboat Show at Annapolis, ElectroMaxx had a good deal on a 160 Amp ElectroMaxx alternator, a serpentine belt kit and a Balmar MC-614 regulator.
In December of 2014 I installed the alternator and serpentine belt kit as well as ElectroMaxx’s alternator belt tensioner. One of the features of the ElectroMaxx alternator is that it has a simple regulator built into it and it is pin compatible with the Yanmar alternator so you can just plug it in. Also replaced the Cruising Equipment Amp-Hour meter with a Victron BMV-602S. The Victron functionality is very similar to the Cruising Equipment device but the Viltron uses an RJ-45 cable/terminator for the connections to its shunts rather then the small individual wires for the Cruising Equipment device which I frequently needed to re-land if I had been been messing with the wiring to adjacent equipment in the Nav Station. For the past year this is the setup I have been using on Crazy Fish.
After reading some posts on the forums and some of the articles on Compass Marine website I realized I was going to re-wire the boat to provide a separate charging and load cabling off the battery, a voltage sensing wire run from the Balmar MC-614 regulator directly to the batteries. temperature sensors for the alternator and battery banks connected to the MC-614 regulator, a different switch configuration, a Balmar Duo Charge to charge Optima Starting battery and a Balmar Smart Guage to provide and accurate measure of the capacity of the house bank. Add a Brother labeler to add labels for the new and existing wire and the a proper battery cable crimping tool and battery lugs as describe in Compass Marine Article
So lots of items to install but first I need to come up with the new wiring diagram and order the additional Wire. Currently building up the a wiring diagram of the current system in OmniGraffle and will then add in the modifications. But currently need to get engine compartment back together. So this project is still in the preliminary stage although most of the components have been purchased. The Victron BMV-602s will remain in the system as it and the Balmar SmartGuage are complimentary devices. Battery Capacity from Smart Guage, Amp flows, Amp-Hour calculations from the Victron.
There is also a Maretron N2K meter in the lower left corner which has been pretty good in indicating electrical issues in NMEA 2000 networks. I had a short in the NMEA 2000 cable feeding the cockpit instruments.
An issue of the inflatable floor is protecting it against leaks. The scuba gear can be hard on the floor and issues with fishing hooks and speargun spear tips.
And we have the issue of Tinkerbell, a West Highland’s Terrier or Westie.
Tinkerbell loves the dinghy. When underway at slow speeds she normally stands on the bow tube. When anchored with the dinghy tied off the big boat Tinkerbell will leap from the deck to the dinghy inflatable floor. On a week long trip to the Channel Island she put 4 small holes/leaks into the inflatable floor.
First attempt to protect the floor was with inexpensive indoor/outdoor carpet from Home Depot. We cut it large enough hoping that the edges would become lodged between the tubes and the floor at the edges of the floor. Did not work, carpet would move around. Thought about using glue on Velcro on the floor and sew-on Velcro on the bottom of the carpet but did not want subject the floor to the adhesive of the Velcro or the use of Acetone or MEK to remove the adhesive and it lossed its holding power.
So started to look at the variety of rubber like non-skid surfaces. Many came with a 3M self adhesive although I not sure how long that may last. The material needed
to be pliable enough so that when the dinghy was deflated it will still roll up into a reasonable sized bundle. Saw OceanGrip website and ordered their sampler.
Look like the material would work so order a single full sheet. One of the samples was a nice grey fairly close to the color of the dinghy which would have been ideal but the color was not available on the website for a single layer sheet. They sell double layer sheets as well but I was concerned that a double layer sheet would be to stiff and perhaps too thick to work in this application. So out of the 4 color choices I choose white.
When the material arrived I deflated the dinghy, remove the inflatable floor, inflated the floor, cut the OceanGrip sheet to match the inflatable floor. Pretty good fit although another foot in length would have been ideal - as you can see in the picture the very bow of the boat is left unprotected. The sheet had 3M adhesive on the
back, So attaching the OceanGrip sheet to the inflatable floor was fairly straight forward process of peeling off the backing and rolling the OceanGrip out.
Dinghy with the OceanGrip added
The white surface is probably going to be a problem as it shows dirt very well. Step from the dock onto the white deck, dirt foot prints. Tinkerbell jumps from the dock to the deck - dirt paw prints.
Next step is likely to cut down the indoor/outdoor carpet and attach it the OceanGrip deck using Velcro. Here is the carpet played over the OceanGrip.
On the stern transom are the mount points for dinghy wheels for beach landings. Need to add a few D-Rings to inside of the tubes for scuba gear tiedowns and to the outside to provide secure spots to clip off tanks, etc prior to boarding the dinghy from the water.
Went to the US Sailboat Show in Annapolis again his year
One of the items I have been considering for Crazy Fish is some sort of removable bowsprit to get the asymmetric spinnaker further forward and to fly some sort of Code 0/Gennaker style sail which would be quite useful in San Diego and the west coast of Mexico.
At the show Halberg Rassy was displaying a new HR 43 which had an interesting removable bowsprit.
Note: No bobstay and the HR staff indicated it was designed to sail a Code 0 without a bobstay.
The HR43 had a double anchor bow roller and the bowsprit was designed to sit/attach to the port side bow roller
Starboard attachment point to bow roller
The aft receiver for the bowsprit.
Starboard and Port attachment points
Closeup of port attachment point.
View of bowsprit from deck. Also like how the bow navigation lights were mounted. The bow navigation light on Crazy Fish has an issue with catching lines (asymmetric and symmetric spinnaker lines) and this would be a possible solution.
Later one side of the shelf was used for a number of the WH autopilot components. The bulkhead between the engine compartment and the starboard cockpit locker was reinforced with 2x6 Mahogany which was glassed in using WEST Systems Epoxy. A custom aluminum shelf was mounted to the bulkhead and the autopilot hydraulic ram mounted to it. With the original wheel steering the pulleys and cable were all above this and the quadrant also shared some space.
The insulation around the engine was replaced ~2002 when the boat was hauled at Baja Naval in Ensenada to strip the bottom paint off, but the insulation in the aft end of the engine compartment was original. The insulation has been deteriorating the past couple of years and creating a mess so I felt it was time to remove it. Decided I did not want to replace it. Currently planning on keeping the insulation adjacent to the engine but to remove the insulation and glue in the aft end of the engine compartment and then paint it.
Also decided it was time to have the hydraulic components that make up the WH autopilot overhauled so pulled them and then removed the AB refrigeration unit and the shelf to have better access to the area. Ultimately pulled the cockpit drain hoses, the manual bilge pump hoses , the aft water tank hoses and the wet exhaust hoses and fiberglass pipe. Cleanup and painting area was expanded to the area around the rudder post and the two lockers on either side of the rudder post.
The back end of the engine compartment
From top to bottom, the wet exhaust, the fill hose for the aft water tank and the overflow hose for the aft water tank
Lots of sanding so far with some glue remaining on the bulkhead and behind the hoses after they were removed.
Aft Starboard side showing metal beam across the compartment, rudder post, Edson rudder arm for WH autopilot hydraulic drive and plenty of glue left on the aft bulkhead. Most of the glue had been sanded off the top surface beneath the cockpit by this time.
Aft Port side
The Mast wire inside the boat
From the right we have the Datamarine Wind instrument cable, the VHF Radio Coax, the lighting grounding 4 AWG wire and the individual power wires for the mast lights
The Mast Step
We have the stainless mast step and mounted onto it is the aluminum mast step from LeFiell which the base of the mast fits around.
The alumnium mast piece is going to be replaced
The wires are coming out of a piece of marine house.
The green wire is the 4 AWG lightning ground which is landed on the aluminum mast step.
The black cable on the left is the VHF radio coax.
The grey wire is the Datamarine Wind Instrument Wire.
The black cable with the plug on the end are the power wires wrapped in black electrical tape.
Close up of the aluminum mast step
The plug used to link the power wires for the mast lights
VHF Cable connections - wire cut off
Datamarine Cable Connections
Mast Wire and Conduit inside mast
Mast at Koehler-Kraft Yard
Top of Mast with VHF antenna, masthead light (tricolor, anchor, strobe), B&G Network Wind Instrument Base, spinnaker bale
Close Up, all scheduled to be replaced
View from the side
Mast Step, Crazy Fish has a pair of mast steps near the top of the mast, facilitating working on the top of the mast.
Dyneema Stay 1
Dyneema Stay 2
Dyneema Stay 3
Dyneema Stay 4
Dyneema Stay 5
For the past week or so I have been working with Lefiell Masts to get a few replacement parts - sheaves, an aluminum mast step and a possible replacement of the boom to mast connection.
The bolts attaching the cap to the boom have stripped over time. There was also an issue of the boom rotating a bit and it needed to be pinned prior to the installation of Garheur Rigid Vang.
Lefiell wanted pictures sent of the boom cap.
Here they are:
Starboard with missing bolt
So Lefiell has a modified design with tabs on the Boom Cap to keep the boom from rotating if desired.
Unfortunately the Boom Cap on Crazy Fish is an entirely older design that is no longer in production and in order to update to the new Boom Cap would require replacement of the entire boom.
Lefiell recommendation was just to move the Cap back into its original position and drill some new holes and tap them and insert bolts.
Dynamic Marine got around to looking at the Prop Shaft Thursday Morning. Suggested that due to rust on the prop shaft that it would be a good option to replace the prop shaft rather then cut and key the existing one. Go ahead to replace the shaft was given Thursday noon. Expectations were that the new prop shaft would be at the yard around 10:00 AM Monday morning. Around noon I walked over to Dynamic Marine and Dave indicated 3:00 PM. When I got to the yard on Tuesday morning around 9 the shaft and prop were installed. Next step is to lift the boat to install the rudder and then to place the new bearing and build the resin/fiberglass seat for it. Unfortunately the boat yards two travel lift both had suffered hydraulic hose failures, so the yard was backed up. Fortunately 1 travel lift was in operation and the other one being worked by the time I arrived. Its possible that the boat will be lifted sometime this afternoon, the work done, the boat launched and then Hoffman Yacht will complete the work with the boat in the water tomorrow. …….
Max Prop in place on the new shaft.
Close up of the Prop and the fittings
Set screws are 2.5 mm Allen wrench
Pitch adjustment are 6 mm Allen wrench
Zinc screws are 4 mm Allen wrench
Close up of Set screw and Pitch adjustment screw
22 degree Pitch adjustment screw
Used the 22 in the R slot (right handed prop, forward pitch)
Used the 3 in the L slot (right handed prop, reverse pitch).
Came back today looking like this - very nice, I can’t see where the weld was done to connect the piece sent by Pacific Seacraft to the rudder.
Prop shaft has been sent over to Dynamic Marine (across from Downwind) to have 1 1/4” removed.
Cutlass bearing is looking a little lonely
Possible that the prop shaft may come back in time so that the remaining work can be completed and Crazy Fish be dropped in the water tomorrow (Friday) but it may be Monday before she is back in the water.
Prior to this I have been working with Le Fiell Masts to get a few replacement parts - sheaves
The Prop looks like it might not fit once the rudder is installed.
Sent pictures to Thumper at Pacific Seacraft and talked with him.
He indicated that shaft on Crazy Fish was a bit longer then normal and needed to be cut and/or there was still room in the coupling to move it forward.
Confirmed that MaxProp 4 blade Easy would work on a Crealock 37 and that one check that the factory does on installs is to insure that the prop can be removed and installed with the rudder in place.
Fairly straightforward - remove the 4 bolts holding the pedestal and the 4 bolts holding the stainless steel tubing attached to the pedestal. Ratcheting 3/4 and 7/16 wrenches made it easier. With the rudder dropped the quadrant had already been removed so only needed to remove the fittings from the ends of the steering cable. Also detached the Morse cable that controls activation of the Auto Pilot from the Auto Pilot end. Small of amount of sealant was used so once the bolts were removed it was easy to rock the pedestal forward and break the sealant seal.
Tied a line to the pedestal and lowered it to the ground. Then cleaned up the sealant.
Work to be done by Ramon of Chingon Custom Metal Fabrication
Working with Steve Hoffman on the mechanical projects
After the initial high pressure wash down of the hull, the boat was left in the sling while the rudder was dropped.
Had Steve talk with Thumper at Pacific Seacraft so that everyone was clear on the modifications required.
Lots of slop at the shaft/cutlass bearing so it was agreed that the cutlass bearing would be replaced.
Crazy Fish with first coat of paint on starboard side
Starboard Side 2
The Engine Control was stocked and ordered from Fisheries Supply in Seattle. Part # KOB 2042KW1.
Also needed was a cable attachment kit for the Teleflex/Morse Series 30 or Series 40 cables. Determine that the current installation used series 30 cable (10-42 threads at the ends).
Originally ordered 1 kit thinking it would include attachments for both the throttle and gear shift connections, but I was wrong. Each kit (KOB 2042-0901) supplies what is needed to attach 1 cable to the Kobler Engine Control.
Cutting the hole cleanly was quite easy with Fein Multimaster Tool.
The tool is highly recommended. I have had it for over a year and have used on a variety of projects.
Used the blade to cut the hole and the grinding piece to clean the surfaces and to open the hole up a bit more.
Was no problem cutting the hole cleanly thru the fiberglass and marine ply bulkhead. The chip in the upper right corner was due to a bit of excessive pounding with the rubber mallet trying to fit the unit in place.
Once the hole was cut and the Engine Control found to fit with some slack, I mixed up some West Systems epoxy and painted the edges of the hole to seal them from water penetration. Let dry overnight and then completed the mount
The Kobelt has a removable handle
Once mounted measured the distance required cable length at 52” for throttle and 51” for the gear shift. Shortest standard Series 30 Morse cable that Teleflex makes is 6 feet. Purchased two of these cables at San Diego Marine Exchange and they installed cleanly.
The original foam and material was purchased at UFO in National City.
The actual construction of the cushions was done by Hoffman Foam.
Memo and crew did an excellent job a few years back replacing the headliner and have been the goto source for any canvas or upholstery work since then. Quality work, decent prices.
The cushions replaced a set of cushions that were dark green and had buttons in the them. The first failure of the cushions was enlargement of the holes around the buttons. The new cushions had no buttons but we wanted something to break up the cushions so the wedge was added. We also went with a much lighter color.
The 3 B&G Triton Instruments are mounted in a NavPod pod which has the the back piece meant to be mounted to a horizontal tube cut off.
The thru bolts of the NavPod are run thru a couple of layers of starboard which were cut to fit.
1/4 20 bolts are run thru the starboard and mount to aluminum piece which was cut from some 4 inch right angle stock acquired from McMaster Carr. The unit is held in place by 4 wing nuts which can be removed and the whole NavPod move down below. The aluminum is bolted to holes drilled and tapped into the bottom base of the traveller.
The NMEA 2000 cable is run thru the traveller to the port post, into the headliner, into the cabinet above the quarter berth and then to area behind the electrical panel. In order to drill and tap the bottom of the traveller the companion way door had to be removed.
The wind instrument has yet to be mounted so we are displaying depth, speed and sea temp from the single transducer and GPS info from the Garmin GPS over a Actisense NMEA 183 to NMEA 2000 interface.
The view from the front
A closer view
The view from the side
The replacement of the fresh water hose is basically done.The fuel tank was dropped back into the boat.The bare teak under the galley sink has been varnished.The sink needs to be fitted with the new fixtures and installed.
With the water hose out of few lockers I decided to take the opportunity to paint the inside of the lockers. 2 coats of paint have freshen the look - painting the locker beneath the head sink was a bit of a paint fume experience.
With the fuel tank I also started looking at how some the electrical wires had been run since Crazy Fish had been built. Decided to rerun some of the wires to duplicate the runs the Pacific Seacraft had used when building the boat.. Also with the fuel tank removed it open up the possibility of removing some wire that had been abandoned. 1 2/0 red wire was abandoned when I converted the Pacific Seacraft installed 2 banks of batteries located under the settee adjacent to the bulkhead between head and the main salon. Originally 3 12 volt batteries arranged in 2 banks, I removed them and the shelf they sat on and replaced it with a shelf that sat lower and could hold 4 Trojan T104 6 volt batteries in one house bank. At the same time I added a starter battery next to the engine. Since the battery switch is and was located next to the engine this abandoned 2/0 wire was for the 2 banks.
Also was looking at the Bilge Pump situation on the boat. The manual Whale Titan in the cockpit was in the need of repair. The stainless steel bolt that holds the plates together literally fell apart. The head of the bolt separated from the rest of the bolt. The upper plates is cracked but I was able to put it back together. Whale sells a replacement part but decided to buy a whole new pump. Also decided to install a new diaphragm bilge pump in the area next to the trash can and where the macerator for sink, the fresh water pressure pump and the wash down pump are located. Its intake will be at the same location as the Whale Titan and will run be set to run automatically. Both pumps on order and should be here tomorrow.
Also having replaced the Datamarine instruments with a set of B&G Network instruments in 1999 most of the cable runs for the Datamarine instruments were still in place so those have now largely been removed. Also as I now have a new set of B&G Triton instruments the B&G Network cabling is being removed and I will run some of the new NMEA 2000 cables for the B&G Tritons todays.
Hopefully finish up the electrical work today and enough of the new water hose installation today, so that I can drop the fuel tank back in tomorrow.
Would be nice to have the boat operable once again as we have been having some great weather.
The fresh water hoses on Crazy Fish were mainly the hose that been installed when the boat was new. So it is now 23 years old. It had yellowed and had become sticky to the touch.
Initial estimate of the amount of hose that I would need was around 100 feet. Recognizing once again that the cost of the materials was swamped by the installation cost otherwise known as my time I spent some time searching for the best hose. The hose I selected was Trident Series 161 HD Reinforced 1/2” inch Hose (Mfg part number 161-0126).
Heavy duty non-toxic FDA compound PVC with nylon reinforcement. For pressurized drinking water systems and many other uses. Resists odor, taste and up to 250 PSI/WP (depending on I.D. size) @ 70°F. For cold and hot tap water. Good flexibility and bend radius.
Was unable to source it locally (West Marine stocked Trident Series 162 hose) so acquired it from Fisheries Supply in Seattle which has 3 day delivery for UPS Ground shipments to San Diego.
From the head 4 freshwater hoses lead aft (forward water tank, head sink hot water, head sink cold water and head sink foot pump). These lead thru a hole in the aft head bulkhead to underneath the main settee and then another hole to space under the sole up against the main settee. They were cable tied and screwed down in 3 locations under the main settee so I ended up pulling the fuel tank in order to gain access. Once the fuel tank was removed access to the hose run was pretty good and replacement of the hose fairly easy although the space beneath the galley was a bit cramped for the 200+ lb installer.
In 1998 I had installed a PUR 80 Watermaker in the cabinet beneath the head sink. The waste water hose was run from this location beneath the shower sump to the sole on the port side, beneath the galley sink area, under the water heater and back to a T in cockpit water drain. With the present hoses removed came the opportunity to enlarge the holes in the bulkheads to accommodate a fifth water hose line. I was able to pick up Shields 200 Exhaust/Water Hose (No Wire) , 2-1/2” ID, 3-1/16 OD at West Marine to serve as the chafe protection but now need to enlarge the existing 2-1/2” holes to 3-1/16”.
I ordered from Amazon a Bosch HE1 Hole Saw Enlarger to accomplish the task. Hopefully it arrives tomorrow.
Have also decided to replace all the hose clamps (some were rusted) with AWAB SAE Size 6 hose clamps. Defender had the best price. The plan is too ultimately replace all the hose clamps in Crazy Fish with AWABs so I will always know which size wrench to use in order to replace them.
Place an order with Thumper at Pacific Seacraft for the Wheel to Tiller conversion kit.
Includes some custom pieces from Pacific Seacraft, the Edson tiller piece and new engine controls. Once it arrives I will install the new engine controls. The movement of the instruments off the wheel pedestal is in progress and I will likely move the WH Autopilot engagement Teleflex cable from the pedestal to a spot adjacent to the Yanmar Engine control panel sometime in the next couple of weeks. Then it will be time to haul the boat, drop the rudder, have the extension to the post welded on, install the new rudder post bearing and install the rest of goodies.
With a bit of help from the SV Luckness Blog SIte (Thanks Craig) I started to remove the galley sink. The nut holding the faucet to the sink was not budging and I also wanted to replace the spigots and the ones located on the starboard side of the sink were going to be difficult to get at.
As Craig mentions in the referenced the post, the sink is held with 5 bolts - one in the aft center, one at each aft corner and one at the middle of the port and starboard side. Life would have been easier if Pacific Seacraft had used some fender washers beneath the nuts for these bolt. The starboard middle has work its way into the plywood and was pretty difficult to get at. Since the spigots were all going to be replaced, I took the easy route and loosen the nut/fixture at the top and then used the dremel to cut thru the metal tube to release them. I was then able to wedge between the sink top and the galley surface to separate the silicone sealent. Once completed the sink lifted out.
With the moving of the Speed/Depth/Wind Instruments from the Pedestal to a new NavPod to be mounted to the traveller I decided to update the B&G Network system to a B&G Triton system.
- Had to re-route the wires anyway.
- Upgrade to NMEA 2000.
- With NMEA 2000 upgrade only 1 cable needs to be run the instrument Pod. As the cables will be run thru the base of traveller now only have a drill a hole to support the 1 NMEA2000 cable rather the 4 B&G Network cables (1 for speed transducer, 1 for wind transducer, 1 for depth transducer and 1 for power).
- Eliminate one hole in the hull - the Triton system combines Speed, Depth and Temperature in a single transducer. The Network system had separate Speed and Depth Transducers.
- Ultimately will likely upgrade to a B&G Chartplotter and a B&G 4G radar which will integrate with the B&G Triton system
Picture of the backstay
Lifeline attachment to the arch
Picture is of a couple of sidestays, one the new Dyneema Dux stay and one the old wire stay.
I have been wanting to replace it and went to a local San Diego rigger a couple of years ago for a quote and was pretty much ignored, so put it off.
I also learned of Westsail 32 that had been displayed at the Annapolis Boat Show that had been rigged using Dyneema Dux and began to research the use of Dyneema Dux for the standing rigging.
Last fail I attended a weekend rigging seminar put on by Brion Toss at his shop in Port Townsend, WA. Discussions with Brion left me more convinced that would re-rig Crazy Fish using Dyneema Dux. I thought of doing it myself but felt with the new technology I would be better served and perhaps end up with less of an excuse for the insurance company to walk away from a claim if I had it professionally done. For awhile I could not locate anyone in San Diego with any experience with Dyneema Dux. And then in my internet searches I stumbled upon Chris Catterton of C.C. Rigging who had relocated to San Diego from the San Francisco Bay area and had recently become a Colligio Certified Partner. Colligio supplies Dyneema Dux and associated hardware.
Chris and I met, discussed the re-rig and got the project started.
Chris Working on deck.
Chris up in the rigging